The approach trail along Piru Creek was very pleasant: it's frequented by motorcyclists but only one group passed me. Piru Creek is still flowing healthily as of June 2020. Alamo is an off-road mecca: expect to encounter plenty of 4WD vehicles if you're visiting at the weekend. All my encounters were pleasant: at one point, a guy in a jeep shouted "now there's a real off-roader" when he saw me! The jeeps were headed for Miller Jeep Trail, which leads up Alamo Mountain to Dutchman Campground. This trail is extremely challenging, even for high-clearance vehicles: I ended up overtaking a column of 15 jeeps who were all stuck halfway up the hill. I have no idea if they made it.
After slogging up Miller Jeep Trail, which is very steep and shade-free, I finally emerged at Dutchman Campground. This is a wide-open, picturesque site with privies and fire pits, and plenty of shade thanks to the conifers that grow abundantly above 6000 feet. There are usually 4WD vehicles here, most of which arrive via Gold Hill Road, which is a far easier access road than Miller, although you'll still need a high-clearance vehicle to get up.
For water, I took the dirt road from Dutchman to Big Spring, a horse trough fed by a small hose. The trough is full of buggy, stagnant water, but there are multiple seeps in the area which can be expanded with a little digging, allowing you to scoop up some lovely fresh spring water. These will likely dry up in July, although you can still use the horse trough if there's no other choice.
After filling up, I scrambled straight up to the top of Alamo Mountain, discovering halfway up that there's an ancient, long-disused forest road that goes from Big Spring all the way to the top. Look for Twin Pines Campground (it doesn't show on every map) - the old forest road starts there. If you can't find Twin Pines on your map, look for a small side-road near Big Spring that terminates nearby in a loop - that's the campsite.
The top of Alamo Mountain is gorgeous. Abundant grassy camp spots, plenty of trees for shade, and spectacular views of the desert to the North and East, and of the rest of Los Padres to the South and West. But beware of the wind! There was the lightest of breezes while I was setting up, but as soon as the sun went down, the gale started blasting. Definitely use all your guy-lines if you're planning to camp.Â
The next day, I made my way back down the disused forest road and then walked Gold Hill Road for 7 miles back to the car. The views were lovely, but road walking is always a let-down. My feet were on fire by the time I got back to the car.
If I were to camp here again, I'd probably drive all the way up to Dutchman and then hike the short way to the top: although Piru Trail is pleasant to hike, both Miller Jeep Trail and Gold Hill Road are shade-less slogs to get through. However, the magical summit ridge is well worth a visit if you have the car for the job.